Your New Favorite Guide to Mexico City
After four visits to Mexico City, my experiences are becoming difficult to separate into distinctive entries. Instead, I’m thinking the best approach may be to summarize the best of everything into one complete glossary. Feel free to pick and choose for a shorter trip or chip away at the entire post if you are staying longer. This list would not be complete without a few trial and errors (only a few though, because Mexico City), so you’re welcome for this list ;)
Cafes
It’s hard to write about coffee shops, not because I don’t lust for them but simply because it would be nearly impossible to cover more than a fraction of incredible cafes littered around the city. Cafe Nin has a gorgeous, sun-filled yard that is perfect for reading or remote working while you enjoy a guava & cheese pastry (in my opinion, it’s pretty much on-par to Rosetta). Clarice Cafe y Liberatura and Cafebreria El Pendulo have the same therapeutic bookstore/cafe mix going on. You can find interesting drink options like equal parts cold brew and ginger beer at Cafe Curado.
During my visits, I’ve also worked remotely from Marcel Panaderia and Almanegra Cafe (meaning there is reliable internet, although it’s pretty common for internet to go in and out in Mexico City). The cafe at Hotel Condesa DF is nice for a slow afternoon spent catching up with a friend or for coworking. Junkie Cafe looks like an adult playground with its floor to ceiling window and colorful beanbag chairs. On my fifth visit (whenever that happens), I have Blom Cafe, Cafe Memorias de un Barista, and Ella y Gatsby at the top of my list.
Who cares if you have too many cups of coffee in one day? Life is short, so you might as well be awake for it while it doesn’t cost you 8USD like it does in New York City.
Tacos
Taco Orinoco is probably the most eye-catching one not only because of their bold red logo but also because they have several locations throughout the city. They’re a staple in the city so don’t miss trying them. Personally, I like Taco Hola right next to Parque Mexico because it offers tasty veggie options like cauliflower, chard, and squash to balance the usually meat-heavy tacos. Taqueria Selene by Chapultepec Park sells tacos with freshly sliced grilled pork. Los Cocuyos and Taqueria Arandas are decent stops if you’re out in Centro. La Polar is a bit out of the way but has become the standard for birria tacos. Plus they have mariachi bands on most nights.
Most shops make salsa verdes spicy as hell but they will never add it without asking. Honestly, you’ll likely find tacos just as good in any busy street stand.
Restaurants
If you only budgeted for one fine dining experience during your trip, I would pick Maximo Bistrot over Quintonil or Pujol, the two most commonly discussed Mexican fine-dining restaurants. Maximo tries to emulate a fancy farm in the middle of Condesa. They have a great wine list and bar program (try the Avocado Sour and the cocktail with cognac, honey, and Champagne.) I had a better time ordering a la carte than trying the tasting menu. Their price point is similar to Quintonil and slightly above Pujol.
Some other standout meals are from Esquina Comun, Masala y Maiz, and Fonico. I love the story of Esquina Comun: the pandemic stops the plans of a chef’s couple, who then pivot into hosting dinner parties in their home, then pop-up restaurant, then full-time restaurant in an undisclosed location. Their story was picked up by New York Times last year and they’ve been busy ever since. Reservations are taken via Instagram Direct Message. Masala y Maiz serves a fusion between Mexican, Indian, and North African cuisines; it’s only open during lunch hours so be sure to reserve ahead of time. Have yourself a seafood feast at Fonico (don’t skip the shortrib) and head upstairs to their cocktail bar for a nightcap.
My partner is particular to SUD777 (way south so maybe plan on the same day as Frida Kahlo house) and Nudo Negro. Of course there’s the classic Contramar and its sister restaurant, Entremar, which is a must especially if it’s your first time in CDMX (check out their episode on A Tale of Two Kitchens.)
Most restaurants will have vegetarian and vegan options, and almost every place will ask for your food allergies. Some additional vegan options are Cafe Comunidad, Ojo de Agua (multiple locations), and Por Siempre Vegana if you’re missing a food truck fix.
Pujol, Em, and Migrante are some restaurants that I wouldn’t think about going to again (although I’m forever grateful to Pujol for being my gateway to discovering the rest of the amazing things in Mexico City.) Reservations for 99% of restaurants in Mexico can be made via Opentable or Whatsapp.
Wine Bars
Hugo Wine Bar might be the most popular natural wine bar at this moment (February 2023) for its wine list and food, but my favorite is Local 1. It might not be the nicest “experience” but promise that each wine you try will be funky and interesting, plus they have a larger selection of natural wines from Mexican producers than other wine bars that tend to stock wines from European winemakers. Loup Bar is an honorary mention, and you can swing upstairs to Maison Artemesia for a cocktail.
Cocktail Bars
Where do I even begin with this category in Mexico City? Hanky Panky is a fun speakeasy behind a taco shop called Fonda Turin. The menu reads like a passport and the Indian Chai Milk Punch is delicious. Baltra Bar is another favorite near Parque Mexico with a particularly botanical menu. If you’re going out to Departamento, Cafe de Nadie is a fun spot to grab a few drinks before plus they always have guest DJs spinning vinyl. Another bar that spins vinyl is Tokyo Music Bar. Rayo Cocktail Club, Licoeria Limantour, and Maison Artemesia are also honorary mentions.
Saving the best for last - I have never fangirl-ed over a bar as hard as I have for Handshake Speakeasy. This bar lit up a new neural pathway for me to enjoy mixed drinks, and every drink I’ve ever had before seems like a blurry, ambiguous blob. One of the bartenders at Handshake also recommended Taverna to me and my boyfriend, but we haven’t been able to check it out yet.
Nightlife
Most expats dip their toes into nightlife in Mexico City at Departamento, as they rightfully should. The first floor is usually an intimate performance stage that turns into a dance floor as the night goes on; the second floor is more on the house/techno side; the third floor rooftop has a kitchen that opens until late (I think their food is incredibly salty.) There is no reservation but there’s usually a cover at the door. The bartenders there also take your orders on the dance floor. I'll leave the rest for you to find out.
Harder nntch nntch can be found at Looloo Studio, which I admittedly bookmarked after seeing Dua Lipa there on Tiktok, but the space is actually so cool and the crowd is friendly. Bar Oriental regularly has international DJs come through. My partner, who has been living in Mexico City for several months now, told me about a dance club called Patrick Miller where actual dance circles form like in Step Up movies? Intriguing.
Museums
There are tons of incredible museums all around Mexico City. Museo Soumaya remains one of my favorite museums of all time. I mean, the exterior alone! Spend a day wandering in Polanco, visit Museo Soumaya and then walk down the street to Museo Jumex (both are free). Otherwise, head to Centro for Museo Nacional de Arte (MUNAL) for a wide range of Mexican art housed in an old telecommunications building, or Bosque de Chapultepec for Museo Tamayo. Most museums in CDMX either offer admission by donation or free admission once a week. The Museum of Modern Art and Palacio de Bella Artes offer free admission on Sundays. Definitely don’t forget to purchase tickets ahead of time for the Frida Kahlo house (I didn’t and waited in line for five hours) and for the Casa Estudio of famous Mexican architect, Luis Barragan.
Shopping
I’ve fallen in love with the thrill of thrifting in the past years of living in New York. Erre Vintage in Condesa is unbeatable, and you can find some reels I made on thrifting here and here. On weekends, there’s an open air tienda that takes up two ends of Plaza Rio de Janeiro with women-only vendors. Clothing and jewelry are much more affordable here than from certain vintage stores, and it’s even more fun to shop around in the sun and get a cup of fresh fruit later on. I’m still thinking about a pair of pants I passed on there.
Boutiques are more affordable in CDMX than they are in Mexico City. I like designer Carla Fernandez and boutique store Cardon MX.
Aside from clothing, you can find a number of artisanal craft goods from various parts of Mexico like blown glassware, handwoven rugs, and ceramics from Oaxaca.
Miscellaneous
Stop by Neveria Roxy for old school ice creams and sorbets that still come in those steel cups with legs. Panaderia Rosetta for the guava pastry, obviously, but be sure to venture out and order with your eyes.